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BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA
Places Visited
Useful Information
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Tourism fliers and airline catalogues promote for Bosnia & Herzegovina as an exemplary destination to witness coexistence and tolerance. The ugly truth reveals something else. Bosnia & Herzegovina is a divided country, with a tragic history, where the aggressors (mainly Orthodox & partially Catholics) got away with their crimes, whereas the victims (mainly Muslims) left killed, tortured, wounded or raped. it is a country that suffered from systematic ethnic cleansing where the demographics changed in favor of the aggressors while the entire world and its useless UN were merely watching silently. Until this day, the country is officially split into (federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina) and (the Serbs Republika Sparska)
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Learn about the horrific Bosnian war and crimes against humanity committed by militias supported and financed by Serbia and Croatia. The biggest museums are in Sarajevo and Srebrenica Genocide Memorial
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Credit cards are not widely accepted in hotels, cafes and restaurants in the entire country
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The best currency to exchange in Bosnia & Herzegovina is Euro, followed by other international currencies such US dollar or British pound
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The road between Sarajevo and Mostar is stunning, among the most beautiful nature I've ever seen...
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Enjoy eating Baklava as much as you can, theoretically at any place
Sarajevo
Activities, tours and attractions
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Sarajevo is the most beautiful capital city in the Balkans. It feels like a mini Istanbul
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The old town (called Baščaršija) is quite compact, with major attractions within a walking distance
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Walk to Cable Car Sarajevo (type Teleférico de Sarajevo in Google Map), return ticket for the cable car costs KM 20 (€10), then walk towards Bobsled Track. The views are stunning from the hill that overlooks the cable car when they move downward to the city
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Sarajevo City Hall (Vijećnica) is the largest building of the Austro-Hungarian art and architecture. The place is not worth the visit. The ticket is expensive and includes an audio guide that requires installing an app with paid options! The building looks fancy from outside. It houses artefacts and manuscripts about different presidents and the history of the country, including the recent war but better to learn about it in other museums
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Yellow Bastion (Žuta Tabija) has the stunning views of the city. On the way to the Yellow Bastion, you will pass by a large cemetery of Muslim victims killed during the war. The cemetery is called “Šehidsko Mezarje Kovači”. It is heartbreaking how all the tombstones have similar death dates! There is one entrance to the cemetery. If you decide to climb the hill of the cemetery, then you need to come down to exit. Do not jump over the fence!
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Do not miss Srebrenica 11-07-1995 Gallery! Learn about the horrific massacres and genocide committed by the Christian Orthodox Bosnian-Serbs (known as Republica Sprska paramilitary), and the Yugoslav People’s Army (modern day Serbia). Civilians from different Muslim villages fled to Srebrenica and Potočari (supposedly UN Safe Zone), seeking refuge and safety under the UN shelters. The Serbs attacked the UN zone, killed more than 8,000 people mainly men and boys. Until this day, not all bodies or remains have been found. United Nations partially played a role in the massacre of Srebrenica 1995. The U.N. disarmed the Muslims in so-called Safe Zone while the Orthodox Bosnian-Serbs were fully armed by the Yugoslav People’s Army (Serbia), and Catholic Croat-Bosnians were armed by Croatia. When the Bosnian-Serbs attacked Srebrenica, the U.N. Dutch battalion did not fire a single bullet against the aggressors. The Bosnian-Serb war criminal, Ratko Mladić, said “Srebrenica has returned to Serbia, we shall revenge from Muslims”
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Another museum to visit is the Museum of Crimes Against Humanity and Genocide 1992-1995. It is an excellent one to learn about the tragic Bosnian war. I was left traumatized on how humans could turn into cannibals! The museum houses items and anecdotes about the siege of Sarajevo, concentration camps and horrible genocides committed by Orthodox Serbs against Muslim Bosnians, in addition to crimes committed by Catholic Croats. Do not miss this museum, I spent around 2.5 hours, the content is very graphic and heartbreaking but it is the reality and truth which everybody must know about. One lady was crying when she was watching a video on Sarajevo siege. The museum is a shame on humanity! Only cash is accepted for the admission ticket
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Even in summer, Sarajevo gets chilly at night. Keep a sweater on you
Transportation
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If you arrive by train or bus, you get off at the Railway Station, Željeznička stanica. From the station, take a bus or the tram. The tram journey is very interesting as it is among the oldest in Europe. Most of the tram routes stop by Baščaršija (the old town)
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Bus 31E connects the airport with the old town. The ticket costs KM 1.80 (around €1). For the opposite direction (from old town to airport), I took the airport bus from the station behind the Sacred Heart Cathedral, station name is “Katedrala”
Restaurants and cafes
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Barhana: expensive, unfriendly staff, very common among tourists
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Board Room: hippy-style cafe, located in a narrow alleyway with graffiti, cozy seating, good for drinks and coffee
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Terrazza: I had chicken curry, came with French fries, rice and salad. The curry sauce was delicious, excellent service, big portion
Accommodation
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Hostel Franz Ferdinand: tiny rooms with poor ventilation, attentive and helpful staff, excellent breakfast with a good variety of food including cereals, jams, toast bread, cheese, boiled egg and unboiled so the guests can make their own, excellent WiFi connection, central location. located in an old and dirty building. Mind you, payment is only in cash, credit cards aren’t accepted so plan ahead
Konjic
Activities, tours and attractions
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Konjic is a little charming town, midway between Sarajevo and Mostar, definitely worth a visit or a day-trip
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Walk around the town. It is very small, with the old stone bridge being the main attraction
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Konjic is quite cheap compared to Sarajevo and Mostar
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Sign up for rafting. It is way cheaper than how much I paid in Durmitor National Park in Montenegro
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If you happen to be there in summer, swim in the crystal-clear river where you can see the stones and pebbles of the bottom. It is a wonderful experience. Read about the restaurant name in the section below
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I went swimming in one of the restaurants overlooking Lake Jablanica. The lake water was too warm in August and there was a snake swimming beside me so decided to leave instantly (lake snakes are not venomous)
Restaurants and cafes
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Studenac Konjic: swim in the cold waters of Neretva River with sun beds on the beach. I had fried fish with French fries for lunch and then swam in the cold river, absolutely, the best experience ever, locals kids were swimming around as well. The owners were very kind
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Miris Lipe: was very disappointing that I found out that the waiters lied to me. I went to this place twice. The first time, I was charged KM 10 for hookah/nargileh, the second time I was charged KM 5 for the same one. The actual price was KM 5 as in the menu. I trusted the waiter but he inflated the price when he found out I was a tourist. It’s very shameful although the place is very cozy. If you decided to go, ask for the menu and look for prices
Transportation
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Type "Autobuska Stanica Konjic" in Google Map to find the location of the main bus stop. There are frequent busses to/from Mostar and Sarajevo as Konjic is the mid point break between the two cities
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I went to the train station but there were no staff. Signs were in Bosnian. I thought busses were more efficient
Accommodation
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Urban Apartment & Hostel: this property is more like an AirBnB than a hostel. There’s no reception. Guests must contact the hosts before time to arrange to open the room. My room had no A/C in summer which was quite uncomfortable. Rooms and washrooms are very clean. I recommend this place if you’re a family or a group of friends, certainly not for solo travelers

Mostar
Activities, tours and attractions
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If you are on a tight schedule, do Mostar as a day-trip from Sarajevo, although it is worth 2 nights so you can visit the sites south of Mostar (Blagaj, Pocitelj, Kravice Waterfalls)
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Mostar is mainly about Mostar Bridge, known as "Stari Most"
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The old town is gorgeous with so many restaurants and cafes overlooking the bridge
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The best photo of Stari Mostar can be taken for free from "Most Musala" Bridge
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Locals do not recommend swimming in the river near Stari Mostar although so many tourists do near the bridge
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Locals offer to jump off the famous bridge after collecting a specific amount of money
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In summer, swim with local families in Gradski Bazen. Take your towel and shampoo
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From Mostar, you can do day trips to interesting sites such as Blagaj, Pocitelj, Kravice Waterfalls. The standard tour is from Mostar departs at 9 am and costs €20. It begins in Blagaj, moves on to Pocitelj and ends at Kravice Waterfalls. I decided to rent a car to do the same tour. It costs me double the amount €40, however, I had the advantage to reverse the visits to avoid the crowds
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Blagaj is a village, famous for the Dervish monastery. Go after 11:30 am as the tours from Mostar usually arrive at 9:30 am
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Počitelj is historic village and an open-air museum, worth a stop on your way between Blagaj and Kravice Waterfalls. It is usually empty in the afternoon, after 1 pm when tours depart for Kravice Waterfalls. It is a good option for lunch. Some cafes are located on the river with stunning views
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Take your towel, sunscreen and water-shoes to Kravice waterfalls. Leave the waterfalls before 2 pm when tours arrive
Transportation
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The old town, and pretty much most of the town of Mostar can be done on foot
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If you come by bus from Sarajevo, it will drop you at Mostar East Bus Station. Take a cab to your accommodation, it takes at least 30-minute on foot
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Driving to Kravice Waterfalls is quite easy, takes around 45 minutes from Mostar, park outside in the free parking lot, it is a long walk from the parking lot, there is an admission fee to the waterfall park
Restaurants and cafes
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Cheap eateries in Mostar are available once you move away from Stari Most
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Porto Pizzeria in Mostar: excellent food with a good portion
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Oscar Summer Garden in Mostar: big restaurant, large seating area, good food, nargileh/hookah, relatively expensive
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Bistro Stari Grad in Počitelj: delicious food, good portion, ideal stop midway between Blagaj and Kravice waterfalls
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Hotel Bristol: I only had Baklava here in the terrace cafe, it was old!
Accommodation
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StarMo Hostel: long time before arrival, I was sending emails to the property inquiring about different issues, the hostel staff used to reply immediately. It is a modern hostel, friendly staff, clean washrooms, comfortable beds with clean sheets, spacious rooms. Breakfast looked very delicious, unfortunately I didn’t pay for it because I had morning tours but it would be cheaper to eat in the hostel than eating out. The location is very close to the old bridge of Mostar, it’s a bit of climbing a little hill though


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